Welcome to the forums Josh R:drinkupI can't give you some advice on the d8, but:I saw on tv a year ago somebody in us had invented a sort of gas system to blow down the holes and then ignite it.The squirrel got blasted out of the explosion, killed immediately of the pressure.I mean it was legal too.Regarding the ripper, the ones i've seen with a single one is far more bigger and solid than the multiple shanks.There is a video on youtube of a real deep one on a D10/11.I beliewe its called "deep ripping with cat D10/11" or something like that.
The best thing for squirrels is to encourage natural predators such as owls, hawks, and snakes (dogs can also be trained to chase squirrels though the native predators are usually better). Though I find a 16 gauge shotgun and a box of shells works nicely (at least for amusement purposes). Here in North Carolina squirrels are considered a game species and have a specific season and there are limits to how and when they can be taken (I think explosives and bull dozers would be off limits).Really if your going to be clearing land that's one things but the squirrels will just move for the most part. And since a nest will breed 3-5 squirrels you can see that your just gaining a temporary victory.I would contact California Department of Fish and Game and see if they have any suggestions about setting up owl boxes or habitats for California Rat Snakes or Garter Snakes near the squirrels.http://www.rain.org/~sals/barnowl.htmlBarn Owls will also go for squirrels and are pretty good about hitting them in trees. The snakes do better all around though and will eventually raid a Squirrel nest.
I'm just curious how you are going to control squirrels with a dozer? Here in the northeast the squirrels don't nest in the ground, they are in the treetops.I think either diligent hunting or introducing predators is your best bet. The only trouble is with predators you will need to have some squirrel population constant in order for the predators to stick around.Almonds are my favorite nut, there's nothing better to go with chocolate! I love the honey roatsed beer nuts too. Do you sell to Blue Diamond? They are a big supplier in this area.
I'm just curious how you are going to control squirrels with a dozer?Click to expand...I don't know how Josh is going to do it either, but I'm sure it would be fun! :bouncegri
Definitely something I'd like to see on youtube!! Right now I'm envisioning him on the dozer chasing them around trying to flatten them, lol!By the way, welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums Josh!!:drinkup
I'm a little familiar with the California ripping scene and D8's, having lived in Bakersfield for several years. With the "H" model, you can use a 6' ripper shank in the middle socket. This will allow you to extend roughly, about 4' of the shank into the ground and pull it along. It will not be an easy pull however for that is a lot of metal in the ground and almost any hard patch will cause you to lift some out to keep going.But this isn't unusual. Many time it takes repeated passes to rip an area to full depth. You may have to cross-rip, that is, rip at an angle or 90 degrees to your previous passes to break up the harder sections.It can also take a couple of years of ripping between crops to break up the ground around Bakersfield. In some places, that hardpan you spoke of is closer to the surface than others, and irrigation has a way of retightening the soil, so ripping has to be repeated every so often. I know some farms do it every year, others can hold off 3-4 years.There are several sizes of shanks from Cat for various tractors and ripper setups. The standard shank is roughly 3" thick and 10 or 11" wide. I believe yours is probably in that range. You don't need to buy a brand new shank, they are very expensive as you will find out. But a good used one will set you back some too.Quinn has a used parts division -- whose name escapes me at the moment -- and you can contact them to seek a longer shank. Their home is just north of Quinn's store in Selma, right up the 99. You can also try the internet for tractor parts sellers and salvagers. There is a guy in Bakersfield named Tom that has a repair and rebuild business and he often is an excellent go-to guy for the older tractor parts. There's a place over east of Porterville that is a veritable Cat museum and they likely have some shanks lying around.Check 'Rock and Dirt' on-line, or 'Machinery Trader.' Either one may have something. Another good source is "My Little Salesman." There's a local rag in the valley called, 'Ag-Source,' which often has Cat type equipment and parts for sale. It's available on-line too. There are after-market producers of shanks, but if you have to ship one in from very far, the freight will be costly. Several hundred pounds of steel aren't cheap to move by truck, same goes for used ones. In other words, try to get something local if you can, don't ship one in from Ohio. If you are closer to Holt Tractor's operations, I've found them to be helpful in the past.There is a PSR rep at Quinn in Bakersfield name of Larry Everson (I think) and he and his running mate Bob have a good grasp on the whereabouts of things Caterpillar in the lower valley. You might check with them. There is a huge used equipment yard just north of Fresno -- 'United Equipment' or something like that -- that you can try. They are a high priced outfit however, that guy doesn't give anything away.When you rip, don't try to get the last little bit of tooth wear possible. This might save you a little in ripper point cost, but you also lose shank protection, and shanks are a hell of a lot more cost than points. DO NOT try to hardface a shank!! This creates stress points in the steel and it WILL break sooner rather than later. Don't mess with trying to hardface the points either, it's a wasted effort as the heat destroys the base metal toughness and again, creates stress points in the tip causing premature breakage. DO NOT buy a used shank that has been hard-faced. Use shank protectors and makes sure they fit properly and extend down to right at the top of the ripper tooth. Do use new keeper pins and retainers as needed, this keeps you from losing points and protectors.The Cat tips are quite good as are the Esco. Cheaper cost points will result in faster wear and shorter life generally.Keep a very close eye on your final drives for oil levels and leaks. Do not use gear oil in the final housings, use only a good quality SAE 50 TDTO fluid. The gear oil causes seal problems, and the seals are expensive and a long way in. Oh, if you are going to do a lot of ripping, keep a very close eye on the transmission mounting bolts. There are under the floor board deck plates and in older model 8's like yours, tend to work loose more often when involved in ripping applications. If you find some loose or have to replace some damaged or lost studs and nuts, replace with new studs, hard washers (not lock washers), all steel locknuts, and Loctite. Keep a close eye on the sprocket segments, bolts and retainers as they tend to work loose, and of course, all the bottom rollers.Ripping is tough duty on a Cat, which is one reason many valley farmers use the big tow-behind rippers on wheels. But I don't think they do as good a job as they do not have the weight to keep the shank in the ground and are rather unwieldy to use. I've also seen them tipped over, a real bear to get back upright. Keep a weather eye on the trans temperature gauge when ripping. Continuous heavy pulling can cause over-heating and you want to stay away from that. If you can get your hands on any Cat Performance Handbook, there is a nice section in there on ripping operations.The guys at Quinn in Bakersfield can give you more hints and help too. Tell them Joe sent you, and Good Luck!
Hi Josh welcome to the forum. I'm in central Ca. and have a D8K that came with 2 shanks so I bought a center shank from Cutting Edge Supply. I have done some single shank ripping (not alot) and can usually pull 4 ft. depending on the hardpan. That is with the center shank only. Most of my ripping is for scrapers so 3 shanks makes nicer dirt and covers more ground per pass. If it gets to hard for 3 I drop the center and pull 2. Keep in mind the ripper does'nt go all the way down so to ripp 4 ft you need 5 ft of shank under the ripper. Squirrel poison and .22 shells are probably cheaper.DP
JoshWelcome to HEF and to D-8 ownership. Joe gave out most all the good info already, but I will add one more good source for a used shank.Try DeLoss Equipment in Barstow CA. Talk to Ty, he has a little of everything, and will likely have a deep shank.I would post the phone #, but remember it is not the best idea on the web. If you need the #, send me a private message, and I will send it to you.Jerry
Hi Josh, could you post some photos of it? How much did you have to give for it. I'm looking for one also, it has to be in good shape though.
Welcome to HEF Josh R! :drinkupMount you a gun rack in the cab and have a little fun while you're working.....no I'm not joking. I got one in the JD tractor I bushhog with around the fields. I keep my .17 cal rifle in there for all them pesky varmints that like to eat my food plots.
I dunno about squirrels but gound hogs and dozers or excavators can make for fun though. dig till you find and chase...
SquirrelsSounds rough on the animals . . . besides, do they live in the ground where you are---always heard of them nesting in the trees.
Wow!!!!what a response of good info! I just stumbled on this sight and what a good group of people. My squirrel problem is ground squirrels which I should have included in my original post. I had a 375 come in and rip my ground originally before I planted my trees and literally eliminated all the ground squirrels in the planted area. So I figure if I buy my own tractor I could maintain the squirrels in the range land behind my trees? Call me crazy but I think this is going to work well! Thank you guys again for all the contacts and good info on the ripper shank and things to pay attention to on my oldie and I know a goody CAT. I will stay in touch and post pics of what is now known as the squirrelinator!!!!!Josh
rippersPerhaps some of you guys could tell us if a single shank used in the three leg ripper will do as good a job as the dedicated single shank rippers?Neil
Neil D said:Perhaps some of you guys could tell us if a single shank used in the three leg ripper will do as good a job as the dedicated single shank rippers?NeilClick to expand...NeilA single shank will rip just as much if it is in the center of a 3 place toolbar, or in a stand alone single. What makes a difference is the dedicated single in built heavier and has a little more beef in the high wear area where the shank contacts the toolbar, as well as absorbing side loads better. This makes it last longer, and most tractors bought with a single are used in heavy ripping, so they are built stronger. Also, the large rock ripped up will not get hung on the toolbar, but will slide on by.Generally, you will not have a problem, maybe only have to raise up now and then to clear a rock from underneath.As far as wear, I have had a D-9L with a single in the 3 place toolbar for many thousands of hours in many different types of material, and see no ill effects.
A multi shank ripper is much more versitle, 1,2 or 3 shanks are possible. A single shank ripper can't ripp close enough to the toe of a cut or stake row. DP
If you need to rip deep, as most of the Valley farmers do that I know of, the single shank is the only way you can get deep enough. Pete's right about the 3-shanks being more versitle in corners and for loosening material for scrapers, but for deep ripping, one is the only way to go in the D8 class. Now if you were using a D11.......
Dh8 picsHere is my new toy:drinkup sorry about the quality but I had to shrink the file.
Some more picsaka the squirrelinator
Josh R said:aka the squirrelinatorClick to expand...Nice looking dozer. :drinkupIn the first picture I see a paver next to the dozer. Why don't you just pave the orchard. I don't think ground squirrels do to well digging asphalt.
Good looking straight D8, congratsDP
Tractor looks good, the extra welded on junk doesn't.Don't let your cutting edge get too low, make sure its not wearing into the blade backing plate. It looks like you have some material there before you have to worry about it.If you know of another one just like that without any crap welded on it anywhere, I'd be interested.
Dozer575 said:Tractor looks good, the extra welded on junk doesn'tIf you know of another one just like that without any crap welded on it anywhere, I'd be interested.Click to expand...bob what is wrong with the one kidnv has took the trouble to find for you on the acme boardor are you just full of itjosh r thats a fine looking machine i hope it does you well and cures your squirrel problem
Dozer575 said:Tractor looks good, the extra welded on junk doesn't.Don't let your cutting edge get too low, make sure its not wearing into the blade backing plate. It looks like you have some material there before you have to worry about it.If you know of another one just like that without any crap welded on it anywhere, I'd be interested.Click to expand...Josh R, while D8 Bob....er.....I mean Dozer575 might not be to good with compliments, the middle paragraph in his post holds some truth. You just bought it so you probably haven't even thought about the cutting edges yet. With limited use they still have alot of life left in them.......but they do have some wear on them. Just something to consider.......On a different note......I don't think the squirrels have a chance against the squirrelinator.opcorn
Hell! He's not using the dozer blade, he's ripping, that's on the other end -- remember? And look, someone installed a nice little stinger on the ripper bar backside, just peachy for another dozer to come along and innocently lend a push once in a while.Not a bad looking old Cat tho, I've seen lot's worse…..
SquirrelinatorThanks for the encouragement. I was starting to second guess myself after the negative feedback I got from Dozer575?? But I've been around a lot of equipment and this tractor, after running her, is SOLID!!!! I have no complaints and she runs good. I have no use for the dozer blade but it is good info to consider to keep the tractor in tip top shape. This tractor is a toy for me and is officially retired from hard work.:drinkupJosh R
Josh,good luck with your new toy! and do not pay any attention to D8Bob thats a tidy looking machine.Neil
squirrelinatorLOL. squirrelinator is a good looking machine. The squirrels don't have a chance. How many did you get so far?Machine looks like a total winner and a total powerhouse. Go get em, Josh
I would wast $$ on a new ripper shank just rip the ground slot doze down 2' and rip again then fill the slot back in. That shouldn't be any more time consuming then multiple rips with a single shank. And the earth would be easier to plant in and more rodent free I would think....
D8H maintenanceI'm finding out alot about my squirrelinator!! My tractor is between the DH8 and the D8K and the filters that are supposed to fit my D8H are actually the D8K filters??? I think my tractor is a mutt half breed!! lol I have the operators manual , shop service book and parts book for my serial number and I'm finding out that I should have bought the D8K/D8H manual?? Is this common or did I just get lucky??LOLJosh R
Not uncommon tho rare enough. You may have a end of the run machine that was among those last produced. Often these shared parts from one serial number break to another till all the old parts were used up. That's an old tradition among machinery makers from back in the early days when nothing went to waste.You may have a "test bed" machine that was used to evaluate new ideas and parts. These are not common, I've only been around one from Cat in over thirty years.You may have a machine that was damaged and certain parts were replaced from newer models. More common than not. D8H parts are getting hard to find, and many "K" parts will bolt right up.On the engine oil filters, many guys updated to the spin-on setup when they replaced engines, or just because they were more convienent than the old cartridge style. You may actually have a rebuilt "K" engine, but there isn't a lot of difference externally.The 8H & 8K models are able to share a lot of parts, unlike the D9N and D8L series.
D8h/d8kSo if I have a half breed machine what are some of the changes that were made between tractors?Josh R
JoshIt seems you may have a really late model D-8H. If you could share the serial #, it may shed some more light on what may be different on yours.Like Joe said, a lot of them were upgraded by the owners like the filters and such because the K model ones are easier to deal with.Major changes from an H to a K include more HP, from 270 in the H to 300 in the K, as well as pilot controled hydraulics for the blade, and most noticable, combined steering clutches and brakes on the hand levers for the K, while the H only had clutches on the handles and brakes on the foot pedals. K has foot padal brakes too, but you can steer with just the levers.There are numerous other differences, this is just a few of the most noticable.
hey josh welcome to the forum! nice set of wheels that d8 must purr !!
D8hMy serial # is 46A29495 I'm pretty sure the tractor is a 1973 I don't know when the D8K started production. It looks as if the engine that is in the tractor according to the records was rebuilt/new heads about 6200 hours ago. This would probably explain the updated spin on filters that I had a hard time tracking down. Just an fyi this idea for the squrrelinator is working. My son and I went out for a rippin party and boy was it a partyLet's just say the squirrels are looking for a new place to call home.Josh R
Whats going to happen is like that tv advertizement, those little buggers are gona gang up on that rippin machine and goof it up. Like drop tons of nuts down the exhaust, chew up the hoses, poop all over the seat, they will get even. LOL
Ha ha 575, what you really need to watch is your dip stick, they can take it out and spit chewed up almonds down the tube. Glad to see your sense of humor 575.DP