Using Stingers?

Best Practices for Using Stingers?

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I'm using stingers but not on my molboard I got a scarifier dozer blade with them on it and love them works great for cutting wash boards out of hard dry gravel.

I always had straight blades but a few years back at work they wanted me to try the stinger blades, as any operater i hate anything different but they wanted me to try them for a week, so, i have never looked back, i use them for every thing i do, ditching, grading, shouldering, road building, snow removal, when used properly they do a nice job in every condition plus your not changing blades everyday or couple of days. and i find they do stay straight which is nice when spreading.

Are stingers another term for carbide blades?

buckshot_86 said:Are stingers another term for carbide blades?Click to expand...no they are seperate round teeth that are carbide tipped, they rotate in the socket or holder on the blade, when the blade is under presure, I grade in alot of rocky conditions, ledge, shale, bluerock,granite, are all in the road bed and are pushing up to the top of the road, anyone that grades in nova scotia canada can contest to that, the stingers will cut though the top of the rock or break a piece off, the blades are quite strong, if you break a tooth off they change indivdually a very quick fix in the field, the ones i have are the john deere type, i have them on a 140h 14 ft mouldboard.

20/80, DexterMunicipal uses them in Labrador in the winter for maintaining mining haul roads. They roughened surface gives better traction.

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Thanks 20/80. I have been calling them "Sandviks" lol. They are very handy, I have been using them both in the winter and will use them just as you said during the summer. In the winter, I have quite a few steep hills and the do a real nice job of busting through hard pack and mixing some grit in for traction. They also work just as well for normal snow removal. In the summer I have used them for breaking up dust control, and also removing emerging rock and I have found that they are really nice for breaking through the hard and dry stuff. But for the most part during the grading season we will usually stick with the carbides unless the need arises to put on the stingers.

Dad5 said:20/80, DexterMunicipal uses them in Labrador in the winter for maintaining mining haul roads. They roughened surface gives better traction.Click to expand...yes thats right, we call it "ice bladeing"

buckshot_86 said:Thanks 20/80. I have been calling them "Sandviks" lol. They are very handy, I have been using them both in the winter and will use them just as you said during the summer. In the winter, I have quite a few steep hills and the do a real nice job of busting through hard pack and mixing some grit in for traction. They also work just as well for normal snow removal. In the summer I have used them for breaking up dust control, and also removing emerging rock and I have found that they are really nice for breaking through the hard and dry stuff. But for the most part during the grading season we will usually stick with the carbides unless the need arises to put on the stingers.Click to expand...yes they are very handy for that kind of work, what are you referring to when you say carbides? thanks

They are a straight blade with a cemented carbide tip, and are four foot sections. They are really nice, since you can get months of wear out of them as opposed to a normal straight blade

I use them a lot for gravel road maintenance and like them.

buckshot_86 said:They are a straight blade with a cemented carbide tip, and are four foot sections. They are really nice, since you can get months of wear out of them as opposed to a normal straight bladeClick to expand...are they completly flat not curved like cat straight blades with a carbide insert in them with the carbide slightly angled?

Rowdy16 said:I use them a lot for gravel road maintenance and like them.Click to expand...they work really nice in gravel, they stay nice and straight good for holding the gravel as you spread, i find when useing straight blades they will wear in the middle and the ends even when you shift the pin to make them wear more evenly across the mouldboard, i use the round john deere type, but i think cat has a more squared stinger i can remember seeing them somewhere.

That's correct, flat with an angled tip. They feel a bit like you have a 2x4 for a cutting edge at first, but you get used to them and they will take some major abuse. Rocks can break of the carbide though

buckshot_86 said:That's correct, flat with an angled tip. They feel a bit like you have a 2x4 for a cutting edge at first, but you get used to them and they will take some major abuse. Rocks can break of the carbide thoughClick to expand...we use something simular to them on our plows, hardened flat steel blade with 2 carbide inserts slightly angle, they wear for a long time before they wear out, that reminds me, i had a buddy that went out west to work, landed a job on a grader and he told me when he came back that the blades that we were using on our plows is what was on the grader he was running and worked really well stayed straight and lasted along time. "hmm" maybe on to something.

Also, they work real nice for kicking the oversize off the shoulder.

For sure similar 20/80, the plow blades on the trucks seem to have less of an angle. There is also a hint of a curvature whith the grader blades compared with the plow blades. I didn't like them at first, I was used to dirt work and really liked the versatility of the normal straight blades. But after hooking a set of new steel edges in only a day, the carbides made a believer out of me with road maintenance. They will take a lickin' and go for months! I am running a Deere 872 GP right now with a 16 ft molboard though, and when it is hard and dry I it is too much for the machine. I am used to the Cat 14's, both H's and M's, and the mass for sure makes that a lot easier. The 6WD is not required either! lol

Rowdy16 said:Also, they work real nice for kicking the oversize off the shoulder.Click to expand...they do , also good for removing heaving rock in the road bed, pulled one out the other day about the size of a oversized washing machine. allways banged up the plows in the winter season, not anymore. thanks

buckshot_86 said:For sure similar 20/80, the plow blades on the trucks seem to have less of an angle. There is also a hint of a curvature whith the grader blades compared with the plow blades. I didn't like them at first, I was used to dirt work and really liked the versatility of the normal straight blades. But after hooking a set of new steel edges in only a day, the carbides made a believer out of me with road maintenance. They will take a lickin' and go for months! I am running a Deere 872 GP right now with a 16 ft molboard though, and when it is hard and dry I it is too much for the machine. I am used to the Cat 14's, both H's and M's, and the mass for sure makes that a lot easier. The 6WD is not required either! lolClick to expand...its amazing how long they last considering the abuse, i would love to have 6wd would be great for ditching, snowremoval, can get you into trouble to lol, we have a 140m too, have abit of seat time in it, don't like running any distance with it with the touchy steering, nice to operate when you get there, we had alot of trouble with the 140m, 600hr, needed a full set of injectors, the factory ones were aftermarket, we are on the forth set now 4500hr, 800hr crank failure,900hr hyd pump, constent steering failures even with the new software update, and the list goes on, it was funny the other day the cat mech was out and he was looking at the two graders side by side[140h -140m] he said the h stands for headache the m stands for migrain, lol

I know it is mixed bag with the M's. I usually run a 14M and it is a 2008 model. It has of course has had a few bugs, steering included but all around it has been a great machine. There has not been an issue drivetrain realted yet. I am even just as comfortable, if not more, roading it through congested towns and highways as a grader with a steering wheel! But it does have weird steering glitches every now and then. The last update it had confused the grader in thinking it had a shutdown timer, but it didn't. Got a little old when it would just shut off for no reason every five minutes! lol

buckshot_86 said:I know it is mixed bag with the M's. I usually run a 14M and it is a 2008 model. It has of course has had a few bugs, steering included but all around it has been a great machine. There has not been an issue drivetrain realted yet. I am even just as comfortable, if not more, roading it through congested towns and highways as a grader with a steering wheel! But it does have weird steering glitches every now and then. The last update it had confused the grader in thinking it had a shutdown timer, but it didn't. Got a little old when it would just shut off for no reason every five minutes! lolClick to expand...all in all they all have some kind of bugs in them, one that i experienced in the 140m was when we first got it, was kind of nervous about the steering when traveling so i only ran it in 7 gear taking my time seemed to steer abit better, anyway we might traval up to 35 miles to get to a road that needs grading, this particular day i was going down this long hill on my way to a road traveling in 7 gear when going down the hill the rpm started to climb up close to the red line when the machine just hit the red line the machine automaticly kicked out of gear and away i went kinda in the georgia overdrive mode, i thought i hit something to knock it out of gear but the machine will do it every time in 7th gear no code shows up, it can scare the heck out of you when your not use to that kind of steering in a new machine, i always brake to keep it away from the red line but somebody called me on the radio that day at that time, bad feeling.cat had no idea why it would do that i was told.

I'm surprised to hear that some of you guys are having that much trouble with the Ms I work for couple townships and they have them the first ones we had were 08 and run them to 5000 hrs with no trouble the townships traded last yr and so I'm runing 2 140M AWD2 and love them feel verey comfortable driving down the road with them I love the M series good blade in my opinion.

Cat 140M AWD said:I'm surprised to hear that some of you guys are having that much trouble with the Ms I work for couple townships and they have them the first ones we had were 08 and run them to 5000 hrs with no trouble the townships traded last yr and so I'm runing 2 140M AWD2 and love them feel verey comfortable driving down the road with them I love the M series good blade in my opinion.Click to expand...I like the 140m series to, i believe cat is going in the right direction with their graders, but with all new style models in any brand there is bugs, and troubles, that can be affected and problems happen just by the type of climate there oprerating in,they have a new and improved version now the 140m 2 and it just keeps getting better, learn from there problems, new and improved machine.

20/80 said:I like the 140m series to, i believe cat is going in the right direction with their graders, but with all new style models in any brand there is bugs, and troubles, that can be affected and problems happen just by the type of climate there oprerating in,they have a new and improved version now the 140m 2 and it just keeps getting better, learn from there problems, new and improved machine.Click to expand...I agree that they are going in the right direction. My problem with them is the customer becomes their R&D. The list of updates and modifications that have been made to the M series is quite lengthy. Yep, they take care of it under warranty and most of the time they improve the machine. But it would be greatly depressing to me to have a new machine that was frequently dependant on the CAT mechanic to come and fix it's problems.I run a Deere and have since 1989. Our Township buys new machines at average with 2000 hours on the clock. The township next to us runs CAT and trades at similar hours. Since 1989 I've had the Deere mechanics on sight to fix a problem three times on three different machines. Only one of those problems left the machine incapacitated, transmission solenoid wiring connection. The township that runs a CAT has the service crew on speed dial. I asked the other day and the operator said he's lost track of how many times they've needed service. They are currently on their second M series and it's the 140M2.Again,,,, I'm not saying Deere is better than CAT. I'm not saying CAT is better than Deere. I'm just saying I don't appreciate a manufacturer using the buyer to work out bugs. And that's definitely been the case with the M series CAT. Great concept. Just shouldn't have rushed production so much.

Oh,,,, to stay on track. We have a set of Sandviks. Have had them for a long time, maybe 20 years. Use them once or twice a year. Work great to cut ice in Winter. Work great to reclaim gravel and cut out traffic ridges in Summer. Best attachment we've bought. Finally have worn the tips to the point that they've started losing their carbide tips. The shank of the bit, behind the carbide tip, wears down until the tip breaks off. Not complaining at all. Have gotten untold number of hours of use out of them. I ran all my roads with them a month ago and people are commenting on how nice their roads are.

The county's 872 GP has actually had more problems than our M cats. But it seems to be the same case as when Cat debuted the M, lots of bugs to work out. It is a 2010, and I believe that is the the year of introduction for the series. The 872 is a nice machine, but it goes through Hydraulic hose like you wouldn't believe. When they first had it, any time the operator engaged the front wheel assist, the front of the grader got coated in a nice spray. It liked to go through engine oil suddenly for unexplained reasons, and it's oil filter housing would refuse to allow a filter to remain tight. It has had the transmission go out of commission due to electrical bugs a few times. But, it has been pretty good the last season or so. The front mount does sometimes suddenly drop for no reason other than maybe to just to keep you on your toes!

ovrszd said:I agree that they are going in the right direction. My problem with them is the customer becomes their R&D. The list of updates and modifications that have been made to the M series is quite lengthy. Yep, they take care of it under warranty and most of the time they improve the machine. But it would be greatly depressing to me to have a new machine that was frequently dependant on the CAT mechanic to come and fix it's problems.I run a Deere and have since 1989. Our Township buys new machines at average with 2000 hours on the clock. The township next to us runs CAT and trades at similar hours. Since 1989 I've had the Deere mechanics on sight to fix a problem three times on three different machines. Only one of those problems left the machine incapacitated, transmission solenoid wiring connection. The township that runs a CAT has the service crew on speed dial. I asked the other day and the operator said he's lost track of how many times they've needed service. They are currently on their second M series and it's the 140M2.Again,,,, I'm not saying Deere is better than CAT. I'm not saying CAT is better than Deere. I'm just saying I don't appreciate a manufacturer using the buyer to work out bugs. And that's definitely been the case with the M series CAT. Great concept. Just shouldn't have rushed production so much.Click to expand...I know i kind of side tracked on the post but when the cat rep showed up for our orientation on the 140m when we first got her a few years back, the rep after putting the questions to him said" cats motto was first sell the machine fix it in the field later" so there you go, i guess we are the product testers, some operators are having great luck with the m's, others not so good, we have a new deere in our other shop, the operator seems to like it, strong hydraulics, a few little hiccups nothing serious, 2 years old.

ovrszd said:Oh,,,, to stay on track. We have a set of Sandviks. Have had them for a long time, maybe 20 years. Use them once or twice a year. Work great to cut ice in Winter. Work great to reclaim gravel and cut out traffic ridges in Summer. Best attachment we've bought. Finally have worn the tips to the point that they've started losing their carbide tips. The shank of the bit, behind the carbide tip, wears down until the tip breaks off. Not complaining at all. Have gotten untold number of hours of use out of them. I ran all my roads with them a month ago and people are commenting on how nice their roads are.Click to expand...They do a nice job finishing a road, you can certainly hide your sins,lol

20/80 said:They do a nice job finishing a road, you can certainly hide your sins,lolClick to expand...Yep, they make a gravel road look like it's just been graveled and cut a perfect grade. When we bought ours that was the sales pitch, reclaiming gravel. I think we paid $3700 for 14ft. Hard to swallow that initial cost but I think they've paid for themselves.

I got a question for the guys the run the stinger bits on the whole molboard do you guys have any trouble with weeds or losse grass flowing through the molboard with the stingers on?

Cat 140M AWD said:I got a question for the guys the run the stinger bits on the whole molboard do you guys have any trouble with weeds or losse grass flowing through the molboard with the stingers on?Click to expand...Yeah, it doesn't flow along the moldboard well at all. Also they don't work well if your shoulders are damp/wet. Mud tends to stick and not slide along either.I run my moldboard as straight as I can without material flowing around the forward end. That allows the loosened gravel to slip between the bits with a minimum amount flowing out the rearward end. So that complicates the problem with weeds/grass or mud.If reclaiming gravel they work best when it's very dry and either early before vegatation growth on the shoulders, or late when it's almost dead.

Cat 140M AWD said:I got a question for the guys the run the stinger bits on the whole molboard do you guys have any trouble with weeds or losse grass flowing through the molboard with the stingers on?Click to expand...I find when you get into abit of sod, grass that the stingers will shred or break it up better, not having it come out in big clumps and leaving sliders in your road, it takes practice to get the stingers to do that, also the type of stinger blades your using makes a difference to, hope this helps.

20/80 said:Just wondering is there anyone out there using stingers ? If so what are your thoughts on them?Click to expand...I love them... I would use them on everything,except finishing, never tried them for that.Here is a picture, to show what they look like.http://69.89.31.238/~terrasmo/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/edges.jpg

terrasmooth said:I love them... I would use them on everything,except finishing, never tried them for that.Here is a picture, to show what they look like.http://69.89.31.238/~terrasmo/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/edges.jpgClick to expand...same as what i use, your stingers look alittle longer then what i use, could be my eyes deceiving me to, see you have some hard weld just above them, i have the hard weld on the front and the back and on the ends also around the bolt holes, saves the blades. nice picture, thanks

I have a set of these Stingers practically brand new complete with tips that I am looking to sell cheap. I am trying to figure out how to post them with pictures in the For Sale forum. I hope I am not violating a rule here but my name is Clint my evening phone is 970-667-3315 or 970-481-7511 days. I am in Loveland,CO.

Here are the pictures of the stingers that I have for sale.Thanks,Clint

clint said:View attachment 105973View attachment 105972Here are the pictures of the stingers that I have for sale.Thanks,ClintClick to expand...will they fit the m series cat? the bolt hole size are different than on the h series cat, they are bigger on the m, i always liked that style of holder, you can see the stingers when grading compared to the solid holder style, which unfortunately i am using now. nice stinger bits, keep the thansmission fluid to the holders, keeps the stingers from seizing in the holders, plus the dirt won't stick to the fluid, hey i just gave stinger users a good tip and it works really well, nice pictures, good luck.

Here a video from the John Deere stinger blade:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EZrAb6-OfRQ

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