Volvo Ec360b 2004 Hydraulic Radiator Fan

Best Practices for Volvo Ec360b 2004 Hydraulic Radiator Fan

Actual Question

Top Replies

I like to see a minimum of 30 degrees cooling differential. So if 180* farenheit is coming out of the engine. Then I want to see 150* farenheit going back in the engine. I take these measurements at the thermostat housing and the bottom line of the radiator going into the water pump. And yes you can have a fan turning slower than it should even after adjusting the proportional valve. Chances are is that pwm solenoid has failed. You will need a photo tachometer to know what your fan speed is. I am not sitting with my laptop but low idle fan speed should be 660 rpm and high idle will 1700 rpm.

Thanks Paul. But just to be clear, I'm talking about hydraulic oil radiator and fan. Not engine coolant.

OK forget what I said about the engine, but the cooling differential should be the same and the fan speed will be the same.

Any other symptoms that you can describe. Is there a whining noise or hissing? Any changes in performance? Anything like that can be helpful. Any codes?

Everything works fine. Apart from overheating. I didn't notice any unusual noise. Fan did pick up speed when I maxed it out on the regulator, but apparently not enough. No errors on screen. This is I think tier 1 verson, so it has MDU for errors, and nothing comes up there. I just need to find out what rpm should be there and temperature drop, so I can set it, show the guy that all is ok with the fan and look for the real cause od the problem.

More Replies

So with a guess at the serial number being between 10829-12151 the following are the correct figures for fan speedFan speed No load LOW 1100rpm HIGH 1500rpmLoad LOW 1000rpm HIGH 1400rpmfan continuous max pressure 2987psiIs the hydraulic oil temp sensor working? this controls the solenoid which in turn controls the shunt valve that controls the fan speed so best to start at the beginning.

Good day you may find the attached helpful.Kind regardsUffex

The attached file gives a broad overview of the cooling system for hydro and what effect this or that has on something else. I do recall something about earlier non-return valves coming apart . Perhaps oil is not afforded enough time to shed heat in the cooler. Maybe it needs restriction.The fact that your pump discharge is hot makes me think you have a regulator issue. Is she hard starting?

Thanks all for your inputs!!! Documents are great help! I'm going over there again in the morning, so I'll have more info. I'll measure RPM first, and if they are OK, I won't bother much with fan any more. This one of my wierdest customers, can't take what he says for granted ever. But because he thinks it's a fan issue, we have to check out the fan just to make him happyAnd if it is the fan, oh dear, I'll never hear the end of itMachine starts no problem, and feels normal to me. Customer also reports that everything feels normal, just overheats, but then again.....read few sentences up......

Any chance that your oil supply is aerated or restricted? I think I would slowly carefully remove the sump strainer first thing in the morning before the oil is agitated. You might be surprised.

Went there this morning. Couldn't do much as machine was in operation. Fan runs at 1460 RPM. So fan is OK. Tried measuring what injects this hot oil in the system, but I can't reach the main distributor. Machine has aux. fuel tank on top of it as original one "developed" a hole in it. As far as serial number goes.......plate was scrapped off at some point (common in some parts of the world) so no serial number. MY I got from the customer. This model doesn't have 4 pumps, just two main ones and one bolted on top.

You must be a registered user to add a comment. If you've already registered,
sign in. Otherwise, register and sign in.