Looks a little like a Perkins maybe a Perkacat
I assume you are looking for engine parts/information but is there a data plate on the generator end..?
Nige said:I assume you are looking for engine parts/information but is there a data plate on the generator end..?Click to expand...Yep!Did not find a tag on the engine - just the serial #. The genset tag...
When the label on the genset says "Exclusively From Your Caterpillar Dealer", I had little doubt that they could help.When I got there, they looked at me like I was asking for part numbers for the space shuttle.This is from 1994 - wonder how long ago CAT quit carrying Olympian?
I can tell you a lot about this genset. What is it you want to know?Cat/Olympian was originally a joint venture with Generac I believe.The tags and pictures you show are Generac through and through. Generac is not known for supporting stuff this old, Cat is, but I don't know how much of this ever filtered into the Cat system.After a while, Cat and Generac did not get along and production of Olympian moved to FG Wilson and I have had very good success with ordering parts for those but they are a whole different animal, only similarity is the name and that they are yellow.That engine is a Mazda or possibly some other clone.If it is a 3.0L engine then it is most likely a Mazda HA engine, looks identical to me. According to thishttps://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazda_Diesel_engineit was licensed from Perkins who never built any.I don't know if it was ever used in anything but Generac in the US. Generac has a habit of using special engines that nobody else uses. Once support dries up it can be hard.The 94 in the number indicates 1994. Contact a Generac industrial dealer that is large and experienced would be your best hope.
Well, that does certainly shed some light on the subject. Thank You.I guess it makes a little sense given the trouble we are having.I was looking for a plan B if I strike out at the CAT dealer. Inventory control says the parts are still on backorder. Local dealer is covering the overnight shipping due to the length of time this has taken. So I am not hung out to dry quite yet.Incidentally, Olympian is still one of CAT's brands.https://www.caterpillar.com/en/company/brands/olympian.htmlOlympian is positioned as a “value brand” with customers. It gives dealers an option to offer a lower priced, more simple, yet quality product for price sensitive markets and applications. Main differentiation to the Cat brand is the parts and service support. While the Cat branded product is supported by the Cat parts system, the Olympian product uses an different, lower cost, independent parts logistics system.Click to expand...Glad to get an probable ID on the engine. Might need it in the future, but at this point, all I am looking for is a thermostat and gaskets. I started at my local NAPA/Implement store, but struck out there.Does the G3402 stamped on the block tell us anything? Access on the back side of the genset is a little tight, but that is all I found when I gave it a quick look. How can I further solidify the ID?This is the only other picture I have right now. Maybe it will help?
I am sure it is the Generac/Mazda engine but what are you going to do? Call up the local Mazda industrial diesel dealer? [There aren't any]You could find something at NAPA that fits, or call a Generac distributor with the serial number and see if they can get it. This engine was used for a long time. I have one much older (all Generac, no Cat) you could borrow the SN if you need. Gaskets can be made with scissors and knife and ball peen hammer.
Also found thishttps://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-T3000-...-FOR-HYSTER-YALE-FORKLIFT-TRUCK-/270588348890So you could hunt around fork lift dealers and see if they recognize.
My CAT dealer said it has a 3.0 Mazda
Man, I wish I had a picture of our old Case Trencher - Sure looks like the Mitsubishi engine we had, and Cat and Mitzi have collaborated
Took several weeks, but they finally got some of the parts. Still had to make the gaskets though.The pricing was strange.Thermostat "kit" was over $90, but the temp sensor was only $17. Would have expected those to be reversed.
Are u still trying to ID the engine??Just give me the #'s off the top line on the inj. pump name plate & I'll tell u exactly what it is..Sorry I didn't see this back in Nov.
TPG, I will remember this. I see a lot of weird engines and will grab the info off the IP next time I see one.
10-4.. I have most of the oem pump info.. & it lists engine & sometimes machine MODEL by the inj. pump info.I see folks online searching & searching for info about their machines.. almost daily..Just this last week & this week there was a guy searching for info about his Ford tractor.. I saw his post on 4 diff. forums. I got his pump info & answered his question> "what is it".. by just plugging his pump info into my program..But its not fool proof.. seeing theres a lot of pump swapping that happens.. Theres a thread on here now about a 580.. & some wiring color questions.. I got the guys pump info & it comes back to a 530.. I thought he may have been searching in the wrong book.. for the wires.. but he insists its a 580 & the pumps were probably switched..Oh well, I tried..What gets me is> why the hell do u buy something that u don't know what it is.???!!!!I see this header all the time>> Please Help ID..THEN the first sentence is usually> I bought the tractor off Craigs List & I;m trying to ID it.. & get some info on it.. WHY did u buy it if u don't know what it is.!!!
Generator manufacturers, especially Generac like to use what the techs call "engine of the month"For instance the local PD has a new Generac diesel generator. Out of curiosity I have been trying and trying to figure out what engine it is because they hid the manufacturer real good. The conclusion I eventually came to was that it is some Korean manufacturer with a 3 letter name that does not otherwise appear in the US. And I am usually pretty good at recognizing engines, little symbols, etc. but this one was a stumper.Next time I go there I will get some numbers off the IP and see what they say.
PLEASE get a spray can Gasket/Paint remover.. its cheap & on top of that, if anyone is watching, makes u look like a professional.. instead of pulling out your pocket knife & goin to town on the paint..These NEWER pumps are laser etched now.. u can barely see the #'s & they're etched into a soft tin plate..You dont wanna start scraping them w/ a knife.. "Just a little tip from your Uncle Larry."
I no longer have Generac Industrial access after leaving my last employer, but I do have the Mazda 3.0 engine service manual saved on my laptop if you want it. I don't have the parts manual, but it's Generac document #PB30000D according to the service manual.
I serviced an Olympian propane gen set once that was powered with a Ford Pinto engine.
TomA said:I serviced an Olympian propane gen set once that was powered with a Ford Pinto engine.Click to expand...Kohler loved those "Ford Metric" engines as well. I have the oddball triple square head bolt socket for them, but have yet to need it.
We have two of the Ford/Olympian out in the yard, and one Kohler. Customers all over with the Onan/Cummins version, Kohler, also at least one Generac.They have a timing belt but non-interference and easy to change. Aside from that, a pretty perfect engine.
Birken Vogt said:We have two of the Ford/Olympian out in the yard, and one Kohler. Customers all over with the Onan/Cummins version, Kohler, also at least one Generac.They have a timing belt but non-interference and easy to change. Aside from that, a pretty perfect engine.Click to expand...Funny, I think the last one I serviced was an Onan unit. I'd only seen them in Kohlers until that point, so was thrown off seeing one in Onan green. That may have been in Eastern Oregon or down in Elko, Nevada. Can't recall exactly.Agreed they're a damn good engine that was put into a car with a bad rep, but do very well in the industrial world.
Ford Rangers used something like them also. I think that is a pretty good platform.
Follow up. Maybe I should start a new thread...I have the engine back together and I'm trying to start it but I am having trouble with the fuel injection pump. There seems to be a blockage on the return fuel line somewhere. I can crack the supply fitting loose at the fuel pump and use the hand pump just fine. But with all the lines tight I cannot pump the hand pump at all. It is very hard.Cracking the lines at the injectors does not really produce any fuel when cranking
Mot really sure the best course of action, but i need to get the blockage freed up. Injection pump is a Mikuni.
The double bolt by the name plate IS the bleed screw.. break the 5/16 center screw loose & crank the engine.. does fuel squirt out about 5 feet?? ALL FUEL & NO AIR.. GOOD, tighten it up.Check the solenoid on the side of the pump.. {red wire}U SHOULD be able to HEAR IT click.. if not, take it out & see if u can take the guts outta it..IF NOT, don't force it.. bench test it.. The body is the - ground..
The inj. pump is a CAV, DPA assembled in Japan for Mikuni..CAV now Delphi is headquartered in England.
Thanks for the info guys. I had removed the bleed screw "above" the tag without getting any fuel.I will try the one on the bottom.
I think thepumpguysc is referring to the bolt with lock nut above the tag not the large hex below it. The bolt with lock nut on the top cover is also a bleed screw. On my Perkins one is above the other but they both need to have fuel. It's been awhile but I think fuel should run out when it reaches the injection pump and using the hand primer or cranking the engine, fuel should shoot out really good. Do it till you have no bubbles and then do it some more. If you have fuel shooting out and/or running out both bleed screws with no bubbles and it won't fire, a tiny shot of ether is all it takes to get mine going. Try it without ether 2 or 3 times first.It sure sounds like you're not getting fuel so the solenoid could be the culprit or a blockage in the supply line somewhere. Do you have fuel if you bleed the filters? I had a blockage in the tank from the screen on the petcock disintegrating. When I put it back together fuel wouldn't flow to the sediment bowl unless I left the sediment bowl loose. I left it loose and let the sediment bowl overflow before tightening it and then the hand primer worked properly. Hand primer should be firm but not hard with the bleed screw(s) out. You could try with the fuel cap loose, it may need to vent.
Yes, i have fuel to the banjo fitting on the pump. Nothing came out of the rop bleed screw. Haven't tried the bottom one yet.When i say it is hard to pump, i mean it is completely solid. Unless i loosen the banjo fitting. Loosening the return line did not help either. Seems like something in the pump.
U WONT GET FUEL out of the TOP bleed screw until the pump IS FULL OF FUEL/running..Fuel should come out of the bleed screw by the name plate weather using the HP or cranking the engine..What are u talking about "banjo bolt"?? Are u talking about the fuel INLET bolt that's at the end of the pump? no fuel THERE? Then u def. have a blockage from the filter head TO the pump inlet.Take a pic of the filter set-up..IF u have the 1 that has the long bolt that holds the filter and bowl on.??U put the filter oring on WRONG.. The oring MUST Go UP IN the filter head NOT ON the filter..
Maybe i was not clear. I DO get fuel at the banjo fitting at the end of the pump. I have not taken the filter apart.The filter is not the issue.
If u say so..Try this>> while cranking the motor.. work the shut off lever back & forth a few times..DO THIS WHILE CRANKING THE ENGINE.. cuz if the metering valve is stuck & u work the sh-off lever WITHOUT cranking the engine, you'll stick it even more..
U DO have the steel lines loose at the pump or injectors don't you??
Which lever is the shutoff? Next to the front cover, or the other end of the pump. I have worked them a fww times, but nothing excessive.Yes, loose at the injectors.Thanks for the info
The 1 w/ the silly bracket is the THROTTLE & SHOULD BE HELD in the WIDE OPEN position.. while cranking.!!The 1 w/ the spring on it is the manual SHUT OFF.. up towards the mounting end of the pump on the top cover..U BETTER MAKE SURE the electric solenoid is working 1st..SOME of those engines had a "push button" SAFETY start system, where u had to push & hold a button so oil pressure could rise before it stayed running.. THAT button engaged the electric solenoid.Can u hear it clicking when u turn the key ON..??
I just noticed "something"..In the 2nd & 3rd pic.. in the wire LOOM.. it looks like the solenoid is UN-PLUGGED.??
It certainly does look un-plugged. LoL
thepumpguysc said:I just noticed "something"..In the 2nd & 3rd pic.. in the wire LOOM.. it looks like the solenoid is UN-PLUGGED.??Click to expand...Good eye!
thepumpguysc said:I just noticed "something"..In the 2nd & 3rd pic.. in the wire LOOM.. it looks like the solenoid is UN-PLUGGED.??Click to expand...I see what you are talking about. Will have to check it out tomorrow(I think). The engine has not ran in about 4 years. It's possible someone unplugged it to keep it "locked out". But the possibility seems remote. It had a coolant leak and shutdown for high temp safety.Could be a separate problem for sure.I can see that keeping the engine from starting, but stopping the fuel flow on the return??? 1st I have seen something like that. In all my years around diesel engines, I do not remember ever experiencing a totally locked priming pump condition. I could always force the handle down to get the screw to engage.
Steve Bowman said:It's possible someone unplugged it to keep it "locked out". But the possibility seems remote.Click to expand...More than likely the pump side of the wire got tugged on and pulled the crimped butt connector off of the other end, which looks to be zip tied inside the loom.
Might be a bad primer pump but how is it related to the return line? If you have no fuel to the injection pump how can you have fuel in the return line?
Your NOT GONNA GET RETURN FUEL until the engine is running.. WHY are u so fixed on the RETURN??GET FIXED on the fuel inlet.. The shut-off solenoid STOPS THE FLOW OF FUEL THRU THE PUMP.. duh.HOW MANY TIMES do I have to tell u the listen for the click AT THE SOLENOID??
I hope you are right, but...On my 4B3.9, i can pump the primer pump with the key off. I hear fuel pumping through the system and back to the tank.Same thing on various 3400 and 3500 series cat engines. NEVER did i get a primer pump that could not be pumped.I thought the fuel shutoff stopped the rack from metering fuel to the injectors, not the actual fuel stream.But this is the 1st time for me on a mazda
Welder Dave said:Might be a bad primer pump but how is it related to the return line? If you have no fuel to the injection pump how can you have fuel in the return line?Click to expand...Steve Bowman said:Maybe i was not clear. I DO get fuel at the banjo fitting at the end of the pump. I have not taken the filter apart.The filter is not the issue.Click to expand...
If your having a HARD TIME following these simple instructions, whats gonna happen when it STILL doesn't start & u have to take the top cover off the pump to free up the metering valve??AFTER getting the "little tidbit" of information>> that its been SITTING FOR 4 YEARS.. THATS the next step.. & WOULDA BEEN the first step had I known..U need to google>"DPA Stuck metering valve" & watch some videos.. DONT get hung up on engine type..YOUR PUMP IS a CAV/Delphi "DPA" & THATS ALL that matters..
Yea, should have mentioned that sooner I suppose.When i started working on the tstat, i was under the impression that it had ran last year.Thanks for the tip. Will check it out before i go over today
About minute 24 on this video?
Important stuff>> around 18;00.. more at 21:00 & yes 24:00I get emails & phone calls ALL THE TIME from folks who watched THAT video & now cant get the machine to run..& want to know what they did wrong..I tellm> u watched THAT video..THATS WHAT U DID WRONG.. lolTheres a right way.. a wrong way & the bundy bear way..but u get the idea of whats under the cover & what to look out for..IF your going/need to pull the cover.. your going to need the top cvr gasket & u might as well replace the orings on the shafts while its off.. THEY WILL LEAK eventually..& the tc GASKET WILL LEAK if u try to reuse it..{in most cases}Look on ebay for a mini kit that contains, 4 orings, 1 tc gasket & 2 fiber washers, that go under the acorn nuts..{6-12-20.00}I WOULD get the gaskets BEFORE I pulled the cover..BUT ONCE AGAIN.. u haven't checked the solenoid yet & your already diving into the pump.!!
Sitting for years.. I would imagine EVERYTHING is stuck..The transfer pump piston, the mv AND the pumping plungers..& they ALL HAVE TO be free inorder for it to pump fuel..I'd be happy to go thru it once u get it off.. & u better pull the injectors too.
Crankcase and internals on the pump is very clean, but still can't get fuel through the pump.The butt splice you guys spotted is one of two spare wires in the harness. Solonoid is getting voltage when cranking the little plunger on the solenoid does retract when voltage is applied to it. Ran a hot wire to the shutoff to activate it without cranking the engine. No change.Fuel will pump out of shutoff solenoid hole when it is removed.I removed all of the parts under the pump inlet banjo fitting, and all of it was very clean no signs of corrosion or contamination.I remived the top of the pump and found nothing stuck. Very clean.Any last chance hail Mary's before pulling the pump?Dissasemble plunger end of the pump?****!
There is no transfer pump, which is a little strange to me. ONLY the injection pump. 1 filter between it and the tank below the engine.
I really think you would be years ahead to have an experienced mechanic take a look. You might have just opened up a giant can of worms.
U SHOULDNT HAVE taken that plate off.. just made sure the mv moved back & forth.. more bundy bear bull sh!t.!!!Like I said, A right way.. a wrong way & the bundy bear way.. KEEP WATCHING THAT video, you'll figure something out..Your on your own pal..
Why do you have that attitude? I still don't have fuel through the pump.No big deal. It's back together. No worse(says me), no better. We did eliminate several possibilities that you mentioned. If I did not see the end of that metering valve, it would have been an unknown to some degree. Now we know what it looks like.You must know more than me, help me understand.Right now, I am standing next to my cummins 4B3.9 with inline Bosch injection pump. I can pump my priming pump continiously and hear, feel and see fuel being pumped through the injection pump body and out the return.According to what you have told me, that cannot happen without the shutoff solonoid engaged. But it does. That is the basis for my expectations with the rotary pump. That is also the other 1st hand experience I have had when priming various diesel engines.One difference in this engine is that the Bosch pump returns fuel to the tank, and the injectors return to the fuel filter inlet. Where the rotary pump combines them after a check valve on the pump body before returning them to the tank.Thanks for the help.
How does knowing what the end of the metering valve looks like, change anything? All u needed to do was make sure it moved back & forth.. from "pump" to "no pump".. period.Your comparing apples to oranges.. Does the Bosch INLINE pump look ANYTHING like the CAV ROTORY pump.??!!!The ONLY THING they have in common is> fuel goes IN & fuel goes OUT..Now how they DO THAT must be the SAME, right?? WRONG!!!Either your pump is locked up or the pumping plungers are stuck.. or u have a problem in the transfer pump end of the inj. pump, not allowing fuel to enter.. Watch some more videos.. you'll get it..{maybe}
Who the %^&$#! cares what a Bosch pump does??? You're working on a CAV pump! The thepumpguysc has been trying to help you understand but you aren't listening. He is one of the people on this forum you can take what he says to the bank. When you start questioning everything he tells you and start doing your own diagnosis and randomly taking stuff apart that may or may not be necessary (down the road) don't expect him to give you much more advice. As far as his so called "attitude", I think he has been rather polite considering. Did you at least make note of where the spring in the top cover goes?
SPRING?? What spring?? HELL I even noted the TIME of the important "stuff"..1 more thing.. Take the inlet line off the back of the pump.. FILL the endplate hole up w/ fuel.. right to the top.NOW crank the engine over.. & go back & LOOK at the fuel level that u just filled to the top..Is it STILL at the top or is it gone??.. if its GONE.. that's good, the pump isn't locked up & theres still hope..IF its still at the top, your fk'd.. start looking for a replacement..Just plug the pump # into googlewho.. & EXPECT to pay FULL core charge.. a locked up pump is NOT acceptable as a core.IF u cant find 1.. let me know.
The fuel is not getting into the metering valve. Not pumping when cranking the engine.It seems that the fuel is not getting through the integral transfer pump.
RE-read post #57.. the last sentences..YOUR not telling ME anything I don't already know... or are u just typing out-loud.??
Again, i am just trying to understand, and was just answering your question about if the fuel level went down when cranking.I do appreciate you sticking this out.I just am trying to know more about this pump. This is the first time I've been inside of one of these pumps.I am trying to understand what part is "locked up". Fuel is getting through the Vane type transfer pump and seems to be getting through the shut-off solenoid, but it is not getting through the passage, around the rotating assy and into the metering valve inlet.I have not found any info that shows anything in that part of the pump that could be locked up. The high pressure pumping mechanism could certainly be locked up, but the fuel isn't even getting that far.Is it possible that the shutoff solenoid is the problem? If I remove it and plug the hole, wiuld it function like a 100% mechanical pump? Meaning, the shutoff lever is the only way to **** off the fuel.
The hi pressure pumping mechanism> called>> the head & rotor.. could be locked up..BUT if u do the fuel level thing.. that'll tell u..The fuel goes in thru the transfer pressure regulator.. it spins & builds pressure by the end of the "rotor".. which is part of "the head".. if the fuel level DOESNT GO DOWN.. that means the rotor isn't turning.. hence>>locked up/seized H&R..& U are correct about the s/off solenoid.. IF U can find a plug for it, it will act like a sol. isn't there..{mechanical}They started using a "1 piece" solenoid because people were taking the guts out of the old ones & just using the manual shut off lever.. & they weren't sell enough solenoids.. so they made it where u cant take the guts out anymore..IF u can find an old 1, take the guts out & screw it in the hole.. Your gonna have a VERY tough time finding the right thread.. ITS BRITISH.. the Queens thread..& u DONT wanna destroy the 1 u have, because they are expensive..
I have not followed this thread closely but I believe this is a CAV DPA pump, yes?Here is a video on a Roosa Master which is similar I think (correct me if wrong TPG)This video may be the pump in questionThe plungers could be (probably are) stuck. Happened to me once too. Ran one year, next year it didn't.I wonder if mine could have been unstuck by forcing fuel in one of the injector ports of the pump causing the plungers to move enough to get free again.I junked that machine from rain damage due to bad exhaust. TPG, want a DB2 core? Free.
BV, yes his pump is a CAV DPA.. & more than likely at the very least the plungers are stuck.. He already removed the TC & inspected the metering valve & it was free.. so the next step is to, figure out if its seized.. & if it isn't, the plungers are "probably" stuck.. or.. the sh-off solenoid isn't working .. or.. the piston in the trans. pump regulator is stuck.. or.. lol.. I could go on & on..
THAT video is GREAT.. 1960's.. The OP needs to watch THAT ONE.. Mark 4:40.. H&R..Thanks BV.. I haven't seen THAT ONE.. its way kool.!!Mark 8:10.. transfer pumpHappy New Year..
Yep, i had watched that old video.
Let me echo, resealing the top cover is as far as I go on one of these, otherwise I take it off and ship it to everyone's favorite Pump Guy.
Geez, this is starting to look like " D6 loss of oil pressure" type of thread. Hope you don't loose it TPG and pull the pin.
I was thinking of that Steve as well but there's no way this could go on as long as that... but I've been wrong before.
Its alright fellas.. he's at the end of the road now.. only thing left to do is probably, pull it off.??depending on what he finds w/ the solenoid..But I guess we'll NEVER KNOW..?? Lol
Nah, I'll update ya.
What happened.??
Nothing yet.Did get the minor gasket kit and talked about our options, but I have not been back to remove the pump yet.
A "minor kit".?? U mean the top cover oring & gaskets{kit} ??U don't need to remove the pump for THAT..If your gonna remove the pump, get a 7135-110 o/h kit..& take it apart & figure out why it wont pump.
I should have never mentioned it.Just finally arrived last weekend.I realize i am past that now.
Mentioned WHAT??& what are u past.?? Your not making sense dude..
Gasket kit. The topic of your response.
Have yourself a great day.. & good luck w/ your repair.
Did you already remove the pump? Experienced people are trying to help you with your repairs but it seems your mind wanders off in other directions. You won't find a better a better expert than thepumpguysc. Let him know where you're at. He could save you a lot of frustration and money.
Not yet, This weekend probably.
LOL.. Its "seems like" I'm CAUSING him a lot of frustration & money.?? He spent money on a kit he didn't need.. lol
It's $9. Big deal. I didn't complain.
Don't forget.. your gonna need a "puller" to get the gear off the pump drive..You might wanna go look at the front of the pump before u start making plans..The gear has 2 threaded holes in it for "a puller"..
Yea, will see what it looks like. Hope i can get in to it without removing the radiator
Its made to be serviced w/o removing the rad.. "IF" u have the proper puller.I doubt seriously, a steering wheel puller will fit.. & "that's" what most people think of when u say "puller"..Have u asked around to find out WHY that engine has sat around for so long?? Bad bearings, low compression??
Bad gasket on t-stat housing. Couldn't keep coolant in it. It's a residential stand by genset, so not really high priority for the owner.Regarding the puller, i have several different ones - 2 jaw, 3 jaw, flat bar, etc, including some that i have made for other things. Will see what it takes.
Well, I am able to report good news.In the absence of a matching plug. I was able to remove the shut-off solenoid and then removing the plunger and spring from it, and reinstalling the solenoid, I was able to to completely fill the injection pump with the primer pump.I then was able to start cranking the engine to purge the fuel lines to the injectors. And then just a small shot of ether got the engine running.The mechanical shut off functioned as it should. It appears that the shut-off solenoid is weak somehow. Will order a replacement.Thanks again for the help.
Crisis Over!
5 PAGES of d!ckin around when it all could have been sorted out on pg.2 post #27..Like I don't have anything better to do.?? Lol..
You like the fact that there's about 60 unnecessary posts wasting everybody's time?
Amen to that..