Hmmm, I'd drain the engine oil and see if its got any water in it for starters.
Check out the air filters , exaust ports . Look for nest's mice, bees ect.,. a bit of lube in the cylinders , you have to lift enjecters out if possible. make sure no water in fuel bowl. . Use a 2nd battery boost if available. She will start right up . if it fails to start bleed air from enjector lines until you have full fuel flow. Give the starter plenty of rest to cool off between attempts, and good luck...
Exactly what smokey1 said and you'll be good
Good infomation smokey1. Also check the turbo to make sure its free.Another trick I use when starting an engine after sitting for so many years is after draining the engine oil insted of pouring the new oil in though the filler cap I go get a new garden sprayer at the hardware store,fill it whith oil ,then rigg up needed fittings to then pump the new oil is through the oil gally.This gives the engine oil pump some prime and pre lubes the crank & rod bearings.
If it's sitting somewhere you can run a battery charger to, I'd change the oil and crank it over with the throttle closed to make sure you get oil into every bearing prior to firing it. I'd also be draining every drop of diesel out, including the filters and lines, and starting afresh. Others might disagree, as it means bleeding the system but whoever said "there's no fuel like an old fuel" didn't fix engines!I'd also be cracking my drain plugs on the transmission, final drives and hydraulics. If it's been sitting, the water/condensate should be at the bottom and easily removed.
Thanks guys! All of this sounds great, now to find the time. Would it be possible to run a battery charger/jumpstarter off of a portable generator? Our charger has a 220amp jump start mode, it runs off of basic 15A 120V socket. It will be a change from my usual tractor and skidsteer tinkering.
No reson you can't run the charger off your generator. Thats what I do when I need to. For that charger you will want at least a 3000 watt generator for best results. I would think you will also want a fully charged battery(s) before you try. The 220 amps from your jump starter will help but you need a battery too.
Ether!:falldownlaugh
Bear in mind too that most cats are 24V electrical systems so make sure your charger can supply 24 volts or charge each battery seperately... If it's a 12V only charger you won't be able to use it for a boost...
spitzair said:Bear in mind too that most cats are 24V electrical systems so make sure your charger can supply 24 volts or charge each battery seperately... If it's a 12V only charger you won't be able to use it for a boost...Click to expand...It's not ideal but a 12V boost can still help. Consider if both batteries are dropping to 8V when cranking. You have 16V going to the starter. Boost one and you now have 20V (12 +8) going to the starter. Crank a bit then swap which battery you're boosting. I've never tried this with a charger but I've had a few occasions where I've had to jump start a 24V machine with only a 12V vehicle available, the situation is comparable and it can work. Certainly beats push starting a dozer!In reality, most people have a 12V vehicle available so you'd use your 12V charger on one battery and jumper leads on the other battery.Hopefully jtwthaxj has a 24V charger, save a lot of mucking about!
Let us know how this goes. Defiantly interested.
Good idea, I never thought of that...nutwood said:It's not ideal but a 12V boost can still help. Consider if both batteries are dropping to 8V when cranking. You have 16V going to the starter. Boost one and you now have 20V (12 +8) going to the starter. Crank a bit then swap which battery you're boosting. I've never tried this with a charger but I've had a few occasions where I've had to jump start a 24V machine with only a 12V vehicle available, the situation is comparable and it can work. Certainly beats push starting a dozer!In reality, most people have a 12V vehicle available so you'd use your 12V charger on one battery and jumper leads on the other battery.Hopefully jtwthaxj has a 24V charger, save a lot of mucking about!Click to expand...
Thanks guys! I will hopefully get started on it next weekend and let you guys know how it goes. Been curious if you could jump a 24v system with a 12v box, when the 24v boxes are few and far between. I will try to post some pics so you can see the progression..Thanks,J
On my old d6c 76a, i would carry an extra battery and cables so when needed i could hook the pickup battery to one side and the extra to the other. Starter life is much longer when plenty of voltage(and amperage) is used. The starter won't get as hot as quick and since it has been sitting a while, the engine is gonna spin a good bit before it fires unless you shoot some ether in it. Cylinders are dry from sitting so spraying wd40 into intake with air filters removed might be a good idea too. If smoke stack hasn't been covered good you might want to be ready for a blast of who knows what out of it. Checking the drains on all the drive train is good idea too. If you drain fuel and change filters, a trick i use is applying a little air pressure to the tank with filter housing fitting loose to bleed lines. A shop rag around an air blower works good and won't let enough pressure build up to damage any thing.
It's an interesting subject, the starting of sitting engines. At one end of the scale, you do nothing and at the other end, you completely strip the machine down and check everything.Many years ago, I bought an old boat with a 6 cylinder Volvo in it. It had been sunk,re-floated and then left. I figured the engine to be scrap. We got a crane in, pulled the engine out, sure enough it was solid. I put a big bar on the crank and it broke free. More for a laugh than anything else I jumpered it off my ute battery, shoved the fuel pipe in a can of diesel and hot wired the starter. Thing started straight up! Couldn't believe it. It was just sitting on the ground with a couple of ropes onto a tree to stop it falling over and there it was roaring away. Had to jump on it and shut it down, then we cleaned it up. Of course there'd been water in the oil so that was right through the engine. The filters were indescribable but once it was cleaned up, back in it went and was still going ten years later when I sold the boat.That said, I've also heard of people starting a sitting engine where everything appears fine but one ring grabs or there's a little bit of water in a cylinder, with a resulting hydrolock, and it all ends in tears. I always turn a engine manually for a least one revolution if it's been out of service for any time.
Back when I got my grader, it had sat for probably 10 years without running. The exhaust and the intake were covered nicely but there were trees growing through it several inches in diameter and some almost 20 feet tall. Took a chainsaw to them and just had a good look at everything. There was a big bird's nest on the top of the fan pulley with a few eggs in it, I relocated them to a nearby tree... The oil was full, antifreeze was green, fuel tank was almost full and hydraulic oil level was good. I put in a battery and jumped the starter and she roared to life! It operated fine, and I started grading, or at least trying to, never having run a grader before. I did an oil change soon afterwards and changed the final drive and chaincase oils too. It still runs great to this day! I wish I had some pictures of how I found it... Good luck!
spitzair said:Back when I got my grader, it had sat for probably 10 years without running. The exhaust and the intake were covered nicely but there were trees growing through it several inches in diameter and some almost 20 feet tall. Took a chainsaw to them and just had a good look at everything. There was a big bird's nest on the top of the fan pulley with a few eggs in it, I relocated them to a nearby tree... The oil was full, antifreeze was green, fuel tank was almost full and hydraulic oil level was good. I put in a battery and jumped the starter and she roared to life! It operated fine, and I started grading, or at least trying to, never having run a grader before. I did an oil change soon afterwards and changed the final drive and chaincase oils too. It still runs great to this day! I wish I had some pictures of how I found it... Good luck!Click to expand...That's exactly it, and then some other poor bloke will buy a grader that's sat for six months, apparently protected, turn the key and there's a bang as the piston slams up on a cylinder full of water. All over!
I am hoping that it being an old diesel (way before low sulfur) came into the pic that the engine will be free, assuming the oil is clean. I have seen engines that have been swamped and continued to run forever, and also seen some that we flushed all the fluids and still blew softball size holes in the block. (fourwheeling in the sticks can be rough on your fourwheeler or jeep!) Live and learn... I did work on a 743B Bobcat a while back and have to replace sensors, hoses, filters, and strain/drain the fuel to get the black fungus clogging up the fuel lines out. I hope this is not as much fun and that.
One thing I forgot to suggest, and have been reminded of by a little job I was tackling today, is to check the oil in the injector pump. My Fiat has two oil filled sections, the pump itself and the governor. Both of which seem to attract water.
I like all the comments but would like to add run it easy at first to be sure the seals all get a chance to get lubed again. Be sure to keep a close watch for leaks, some of the lines may have dried out. Good idea to change the coolant as well.
This reminds me back when I installed the engine in my D6 9U, I bought an engine that hadn't run in a very long time. When I installed it I could not get it to run no matter what I did. Eventually I figured out that the injector rack was stuck in the closed position. Once I managed to free it up it started right up. Somebody must've had that problem before too because they fiddled with the governor and totally misadjusted it and it tried to pull the rack shut too... Not sure what your injection pump setup is like having never worked on a machine like yours, but on the D318 engine in my 9U, you can take the side cover off the injector pump and gain access to the individual racks and pumps like that. It's also OK to run the engine with it open for testing purposes, no oil should leak out...nutwood said:One thing I forgot to suggest, and have been reminded of by a little job I was tackling today, is to check the oil in the injector pump. My Fiat has two oil filled sections, the pump itself and the governor. Both of which seem to attract water.Click to expand...
The big problem is water. Make sure that you don't have any in the fuel, engine oil, or on top of the pistons. With good batteries, you should start right up.